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In 14 days from Chamonix to Zermatt

The pictures on the migration can be found at the bottom of this article.

Even on our trip we were planning this hike, so to speak, the crowning glory. It is known as " Walker's Haute Route "and is among the most beautiful hikes in Europe. The route takes in 14 days of 'Chamonix' to 'Zermatt'. In other words, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, less than ten of the highest peaks in the Alps. The hike promises immersion in a world of glaciers, towering, snow-capped mountains, green Alptälern a variety of mountain flowers and villages like in the picture. And indeed, as we experienced it too! However, we could not follow the entire original route as on the higher passes still too much snow was the harsh winter. Therefore, we remained flexible and searched anticipated for alternatives.

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(All pictures can be enlarged by clicking)

After about two weeks at home, we packed our backpack again. But we were still very familiar. It was funny rather to take the clothes suddenly out of a closet. :) We then made our way to the center of alpinism France: 'Chamonix'. The place is overrun by tourists who either enjoy one of the many street cafes raclette or are in full gear as hikers go. The latter included we. The weather was not great, but we could have a look at the Glacier des Bossons catch. The glacier comes directly from the Mont Blanc. Our first stop was brief: In about two hours we reached the campsite in 'Argentière'. This is run by an Englishman, anyway it seemed to have only English. The Tour de Mont Blanc , another well-known hike, is very popular among them.

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The road took us further towards Switzerland. The first to pass Coercive was the 'Col de Balme' (2204 m asl). The backpack felt heavy on the rise. In addition, we were surprised by the first rain. But we were well equipped and did not let us keep you from moving on. The descent was steep, but the view of the Trient made ​​it easier: He was very impressive with its size and how it flows beautifully into the valley, gorgeous! With the arrival in 'Trent' we had left France and were back in Switzerland. In our Guidebook (incidentally, also written by an Englishman), it was said the shopping in 'Trent' 'limited opening times "would. The fact that the shop but closed all day, which we did not expect. With a bit of improvisation and nice questions we were finally able to buy a pack "Hörndli" in the restaurant and had dinner and breakfast so! :)

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The next pass led us to the 'Alp Bovine'. The location of this Alp is phenomenal! With the beautiful weather we had almost 360 degree views to the beautiful Rhone Valley. We preferred a quiet spot grass instead of the crowded terrace Alp for our lunch stop. After a hard descent we enjoyed a beer in the sun: These are the moments worth the effort! :) We stayed in 'Champex', a nest on a small lake. After many carbohydrates for supper we made ourselves comfortable on the lake and enjoyed the sunset.

2012-06-28-20-34-42_dsc_0085 The following stage took us about 'Le Chable' to 'Verbier'. The rise in the blazing heat was particularly hard. After investigations in the InfoCenter was clear that we will not follow the original route of the 'Haute Route' from here. The roads were not yet officially released in part and we definitely did not want to take a risk. Thanks to a tip of the tourist information in Verbier we found our perfect place to sleep: A barbeque to Verbier including fountain! So we covered ourselves with a grilled dishes and white wine and took the last 400 meters in attack. With cold white wine, torch Spiess, we let the day end sitting before the fire and gave our muscles well-deserved rest.

2012-06-29-15-47-31_dsc_0135 We followed the cable car up to the terminus. We arrived on a pleasant trail to the pass called 'Col des Mines'. After descending the path walked along the old water pipes . In the German-speaking Upper Valais they are called 'irrigation channels', in the Lower Valais (French) 'bite'. We could only marvel at this ancient irrigation system! When you consider how much work behind it and how dangerous it was also to build this and entertain. It was always beneficial to be able to follow the water, on the one hand, the tendency was never extreme and we felt and as a witness of a piece of Valais history. The expectations of our goal were obviously much too high. The place 'Siviez', also known as Super-Nendaz, made a very bleak impression on us. In winter, when it is busy, your mileage may vary. But we already felt transported back almost to Russia with this large, the collapse of nearby apartment blocks ... A supermarket there was not. So we looked for a nice spot by the stream and contented ourselves with everything the backpack had to edibles to offer.

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Along the 'bite' they went on about 'Veysonnaz' to 'Vex'. This village we liked most. It seemed really intact with a village shop, a cymbal, a butcher and several restaurants. No comparison to the tourist villages on the way, the downright sleep with their empty apartments in the summer. A cozy campsite would have made the stay perfect ... If it were combined with thunder and lightning was ... At the right moment we were in the dry and enjoyed our Spaghetti therefore even more not only the heavy rain.

2012-07-01-12-36-35_dsc_0176 The walk took us past the impressive pyramids of Euseigne. The Pyramids are one of the most famous monuments of nature Eringertales and the Valais. Only we did not know before. The pyramids are impressive 10-15 meters high! They are caused by lengthy geological processes and inevitably go against a natural decay. So it's worth, this visit soon yet! ;) We made our ascent to 'St. Martin 'just before the heavy rain began. To bridge we made ourselves comfortable in the restaurant and hot chocolate. The rain and wanted but did not stop. So we trotted off anyway and found a hilarious "accommodation": An open wooden hut beside a petanque. So we did not have to put up our tent in the wet and had yet a dry place for cooking.

2012-07-03-13-26-23_dsc_0244 The weather was lucky us the next day not at all hold. It was raining lightly at the start and then went on in thunderstorms. Not ideal to cross a pass. We had no other choice than to wait in the woods and count the seconds between lightning and thunder, so that we know when we are safe again. A hot stock then woke our spirits again. We were strengthened and were able to 'Col de Cou' now actually mastered without rain. The sight after the pass reminded us of New Zealand: Pure ... except a few sheep nothing to see nature! Gorgeous! In 'Vissoie' Once we bought the cheese on your mood, swelled potatoes and enjoyed beer and wine. We had it deserved so right! :)

The next day we had time to make the village 'Vissoie' to explore. It is true urchig walliserisch with wooden houses and the beautiful church of stone. But the next target uphill was worth seeing: 'St. Luc 'with an almost dreamy mood and a village square out of a picture book. Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated again, but we were again lucky to get the tent up before the rain. We opted for a campground next to the 'Lac Combavert'. An idyllic mountain lake. The rapid change of weather a real spectacle was offered to us this evening. Alternately, rain, fog and sun. Each television would be boring about it!

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The 'Meidpass' was our next destination. The climb was fortunately not very steep, but constant. And the effort was rewarded with a beautiful view! Moreover us a private air show was offered. To this day we do not know what it was exactly. Two Swiss fighter jets exercised any maneuvers over our heads. Because of the location, we were surrounded by mountains, the noise was deafening. The fascination packed us anyway, at least David. We met in a long time after that other hikers and the best part was, we were able to converse in Swiss German with them! :) Namely, we reached the first German city: 'pits'. Here we enjoyed the first time a meal away from home. And we were not disappointed! A super Käseschnitte inspired us already to go a ways towards the next pass. The rain messed up our plan but then. We could set up our tent near a hut just as the rain insets. At this time we did not know that he does not stop until the morning and it was less than four clock in the afternoon. The first time we had to cook in the rain and then crept away again in the tent.

2012-07-05-09-48-40_dsc_0611 Because the weather forecast improvement in the weather promised we allowed ourselves to the sunrise wake 05.40 clock. This has then also very worth it. We quickly packed up everything and went. The 'Augstbordpass' (2897 m asl) once again provided us with a great view. But what awaited us after two hours exceeded this: The view the Matter with the glacier right in front of us, Bern (former ski resort of David) opposite and high mountains as far as the eye was enough! In addition, talked funny mountain goats with long shaggy hair and curved horns. After a steep descent we reached 'St. Niklaus'. As there was no campground and we had a shower again even necessary, we moved further upstream as far as 'Niedergrächen', where we expected the perfect campground. We were able to cook, hot showers and even wash our clothes in a machine!

This was followed by the first day of relaxation. However, the walking time was just under two hours to 'Gas Ried'. There we found a nice place to stay. The "Raiffeisen Roost" was luxuriously equipped with two fireplaces, a fountain and benches. We bought spontaneously in the "consumption" steak and white wine and made us a lovely evening. We had to be strengthened for the next day, because a hard climb stood before us.

2012-07-07-09-46-09_dsc_0666 During the night it rained again. When we had the biggest rise behind us, we spread out the wet tent to dry and enjoyed the views of the Bernese Alps and the Matter. We were for the last two days on the Europe Route . It is the Königsettappe the "Monte Rosa Tour", and is sold as a highlight in the life of all nature lovers and hikers, even as the most beautiful mountain trail in the Alps. And he actually offers a lot: the many glaciers, lush meadows full of mountain flowers, the narrow paths that are making through the rocks ... and yet we were not always comfortable. Due to the permafrost of the entire mountain seems to be in motion. There are warning signs on rocks and we also heard such. If you look at what can cause the nature, one is a bit "uncomfortable". Thanks to the adrenaline you are but then at certain points and very quick! :) The main attraction of the road, a 250m-long suspension bridge was destroyed by falling rocks. Geologists have given the all-clear for this area. That is why the future of this bridge, or maybe all the way, even in the stars. The path leads because of the absence of the bridge almost to the village 'Randa' down and then everything up until it opens again back into the original Europaweg. Exactly on this "detour" We had a very good meeting. We were in search of drinking water and discovered a fountain between several mountain huts. Fortunately, only four people there and we could go to a place for our tent ask. We wanted to go to sleep when one of them showed up and invited us to a little drink in her hut. We were thrilled and enjoyed the conversations in the cozy wooden cabin with beer and freshly baked Aprikosenwähe, what a luxury! :)

2012-07-09-11-28-54_dsc_0927 On the last day of the hike we got the Matterhorn for the first time to cloudless face! We all agreed: this is the most beautiful mountain we have! :) However impressive as it overlooks the valley! With the Matterhorn in mind, we took the final stage in attack. Now the road was again more populated. It was a pleasant trail, which can be reached by train from Zermatt even. Happy and proud to have made it all the way from 'Chamonix' to 'Zermatt' with muscle strength we reached our destination. To top off Roger Federer won Wimbledon this evening, which still gave us another reason to celebrate. On a simple camping in the middle of 'Zermatt' we made ourselves comfortable and rebounded us first of all. We enjoyed the time with aperitif, fondue on the camp stove and even raclette at discretion in the restaurant. On the day of departure, we were visited by Karin's sisters and her grandmother. We spent the day together and traveled together back home.

The two weeks on migration were sometimes very hard, exhausting, challenging, tiring but fulfilling, impressive and absolutely beautiful, it has to offer a nature! A completely successful completion of our trip! :)

Enjoy the summer as we are sincerely and greeted!

For anyone interested here are some of the statistics:

Height profile of the hike, including the most important waypoints (click to enlarge)

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(Click to enlarge) Total 13'996m ascent and descent 13'050m, average 999,7m up and down daily 932,1m - difference in height in meters per day
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(Click to enlarge) Total 249km, an average of 17.8km per day - Distance traveled per day
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Expenditures per day - Total 397 CHF per person or average 28.35 per person per day (click to enlarge)
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GPS track of the modified route with tents between Chamonix and Zermatt

"Original" -Haute route (click to enlarge)
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Pictures of the hike

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Take it home!

2012-05-19-13-00-33_dsc_0292 In 'Kiev' we enjoyed the time with Julia and Sergei, who spoiled us with a lot of self-Boiled. We were lucky, because the two are also wine lovers. So we could generous wine at our favorite store Good Wine shop and these contribute to the Ukrainian specialties. During the day we explored the city. It is very clean, you get on every corner fresh draft beer and we could see many churches and monasteries. A monastery was particularly impressive: The cave monastery "Kiev Pechersk Lavra" . Years ago, over a thousand monks built underground caves, which they used as the burial of deceased monks. Along all gears are niches in the coffins of many monks, whose bodies mummified in the coffins over the centuries. Parts of these caves are also available for tourists, so for us, accessible. We bought a candle that lit the way. Many believers visited coffin to coffin and kissed the glass during the prayer. It was a very weird, but very exciting experience!

2012-05-20-08-50-46_dsc_0294 Our next destination in Ukraine was the historic 'Lviv' or German: 'Lemberg'. The beautiful old town invites you to stroll, eat ice cream and coffee, a drink. We liked the cozy atmosphere. We were particularly pleased us through the ingenuity of Ukrainians shortly before EM-start: They dressed several statues with a Dress of the Ukrainian national team, a sight to see! :)

The Hungarian capital 'Budapest' was our next destination. Our desire to feel like tourist attractions after visiting several cities in a row left a lot. Instead, we explored the city on foot and let us surprise of the buildings, many bridges and culinary digressions! ;) Also, this city is worth seeing!

2012-05-27-12-13-46_dsc_0333 In about four hours by train we reached 'Vienna', in time for the weekend of Pentecost. We were able to stay with Alenka, a former colleague of David, her boyfriend and Fredy Dog "Milo". The weather was pleased with us and showed itself at its best! We ate sushi as much as we could, visited the city with its beautiful buildings and squares, grilled on the balcony and ate a Wiener Schnitzel as big as a pizza! :) It was just wonderful! Thank you three for the nice days!

2012-05-30-18-39-26_dsc_0401 On our way home we were again visit a friend. Udo we learned in Peru and know he lives happen to be just under an hour west of Vienna. We were able to spend two nights with him and his family. We felt like we were at home. The quiet village with its green surroundings very reminded us of the Switzerland! Again, we were spoiled culinary: With fresh strawberry dumplings! At this point again a big thank you for the hospitality!

2012-06-05-11-54-12_dsc_0423 The nervousness increased because we were very close to home! After all the eating, drinking and sweet idleness we wanted to move. We opted for South Tyrol. In Molveno, a small town right on the lake, we moved into a beautiful room with a lake view in the Hotel Olympia . We were interested especially the Brenta Dolomites near. The weather left a lot to be desired, but we still enjoyed the effort meadows full of flowers and the mountain ibex, which we encountered the same in a whole herd. So just before the season we met almost no other hikers rest was so soothing! After hiking we darted directly into the sauna and the Turkish Bath: The perfect relaxation for our muscles.

To experience an additional region we moved to three nights get rid of for 'Cavalese' into Hotel Lagorai . As you can see, we just left us at the end again go really well! :) The multi-course meal in the evening we wanted to make our day with walks in the Rose Garden and Latemar. The typical Dolomite Mountains fascinated us totally! Even if we had to go detours in part because of the snow fields, the visit to this region was worth. What to be desired, however, can have public transportation. The compounds are not ideal, it rarely buses and you have to be lucky obvious when they come at all. :)

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Eight hours, the trip from Cavalese to Davos, including seven times, changing planes. Our previous experience has been tested for the last time! In Davos, we were welcomed by Sandro, a friend of David. We could not believe it: Switzerland has us again! :) The first shopping at Migros was then a little awkward ... We enjoyed the products that were so obvious on the shelf. We grabbed Rivella and Petit Beurre and enjoyed our first Barilla Spaghetti for a long time! We were particularly pleased by the sight of our francs, especially the "coin". :) As a foreign currency and yet so familiar. Of course we got used to it very quickly!

When we bought the tickets for our train the next day we realized very clearly that we arrived back in Switzerland! :) In Zurich we made ​​a short stopover for the unbeatable pizza in the Cucina ! A long-cherished plan: "When we are home, we first go eat pizza". No sooner said than done. The adrenaline rose steadily ... In Baden we could Brigitte, Karin's sister, salute first. All other did not know when we arrive exactly. We were able to gradually surprise our love. The joy was enormous gross !!! It was followed by a toast after the other, and of course Karin's birthday party on Sunday.

We are very happy and grateful to be healthy again at home. These 19 months, we will certainly never forget! We now look forward to the next phase: The arrival and processing. Fits Plus we have concocted our next trick: A two-week hike in beautiful Switzerland. You'll hear from us! ;)

Pictures Ukraine, Hungary, Austria & Italy

GPS Track Eastern Europe

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Yunnan - China

The launch in China was not exactly easy for us. First, the customs officer Karin did not recognize in the photo on the passport, which led to a long wait and opinions by several border officials, then put nasty bacteria Karin for two days lame.

2012-03-08-13-47-43_dsc_0463 With new energy we continued our journey north. The energy needed we will really be: the bus ride is one of the worst ever. This time not because of the driver or a dangerous road, but because of the behavior of the Chinese passengers. In full minibus was smoked like mad! Not only cigarettes! Also huge water pipes were used. We were fogged normal. Added to this was the continuing accompanied by unpleasant noises spitting, even in the bus. By winding route, some women had passed over again. The handling of the waste was also shocking. No matter what kind of garbage; PET, glass, Zigis, plastic ... everything is just thrown out the window! We felt like part in the wrong movie! These twelve hours in the bus, we probably will not soon forget. The impression of uncivilized (of course for our understanding) China's hit us with full force!

2012-03-08-07-10-22_dsc_0400 The first stop we made at the famous rice terraces to 'Yuanyang' field. The season was perfect because the rice fields are filled with water and then there are beautiful reflections. In the city we met traditionally dressed women. A beautiful sight: The bright colors of the dresses combined with decorated with silver headgear. We are stationed in the village 'Duoyishu' in the middle of the terraces. The idyll of the village is, however, already tarnished. People are affected by tourism. They do seem to lack nothing but begging children and women, when they see one. Once begged a little girl with her mouth full of food ... The state has invested mightily to the village. It was a huge big terrace for the Chinese mass tourism built so that all amateur photographers have a good view of the rice fields. However, we were looking for a place in the terraces to enjoy the sunrise. This has really paid off ... watch the color change, to see how the sun slowly rises over the mountain and emphasizes the beauty of the reflecting surfaces.

2012-03-10-13-20-43_dsc_0521 The night bus we went to 'Dali'. We read in the guidebook that this place is very touristy. Because it but actually were only Chinese tourists not bother us. It turned out that we were usually the biggest attraction. People wanted to be photographed with us again and again, the brave less we caught behind our backs, as they secretly took pictures of us! :) Here we observed the young, obviously wealthy Chinese for the first time. You ordered at the next table all kinds of food. When it was served but does not ate it. After poking around a few times they paid and left the restaurant. This experience was not the last. For a mystery to us, they might want to show that they are so rich that they did not need the food. We spent the time roaming the streets with very clean for once the old wooden houses, which were lined with pink flowering trees. It was a relief to have a menu card in English in front of him. The language barrier caused us quite namely troubles. Fortunately, we have the most important words in Chinese characters in our guide. Without which we would be lost again. Even the sign language for the numbers is different. This we did, meanwhile learned so that we can show in the market for something at least and hand signal the number. :)

2012-03-11-13-24-09_dsc_0550 A short walk took us to the 'Cang Shan' mountain range. There, we were allowed thanks to Amelia and Philippe in high Erland Inn quartered and celebrate David's birthday, so to speak again. The accommodation is very familiar; we felt from the beginning. The dinner was a highlight. On the big round table sorts fine dining are revealed, all served up on your mood. A day hike brought us a beautiful view of the city. Although very troublesome was wading in deep snow. However, the huge Pinientannzapfen way and the thought of fine supper left us the effort soon forget! Thanks again to you both for successful gift! :)

2012-03-12-19-58-24_dsc_0620 The small village 'Shaxi' surprised us especially with its pretty village square. A real idyll! The old wooden houses with cobblestone streets and the big tree in the middle are simply out of a picture book! We had a very original accommodation . Stables have been converted into accommodation. Each room had a very small space toilet and shower. The way to the toilet has never been as short as those nights, which was much appreciated in the cold! :)

2012-03-15-20-10-44_dsc_0679 The peace did not last long. 'Lijiang' was our next destination. This place topped 'Dali' by far in terms of tourism. The old town is supposed to be one of the most visited tourist destinations in the world. And we knew it not before our visit! That's when you realize how many people live and travel here. The masses are frightening part. The Old Town is more a cultural Disneyland as a place to live. It consists almost entirely of souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. At night, the atmosphere is very cheesy. The visit was but still entertaining and also a real challenge for our sense of direction. The narrow streets are a veritable maze, we were glad to have every time again found to accommodation!

2012-03-19-19-23-43_dsc_0721 The next leg of the journey took us further north. We passed the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge (Tiger Leaping Gorge), which will be the deepest gorge in the world. The landscape changed. We saw yaks on wide pastures and houses in Tibetan style. The city 'Shangri La' located at the foothills of the Himalayas. And these mountains aroused our interest! However, there were still a few hours bus ride inclusive pass crossing in front of us until we were finally able to take a first look at the stunningly beautiful mountain range 'Meili Xue'. On a newly built viewing platform of the mountains towered majestically in front of us: 13 peaks over 6,000 meters! These mountains we had never seen before. We had a very lucky with the weather, the visibility was perfect! In addition, it had snowed a few days ago, which made the picture really perfect.

With Chinese students, who fortunately spoke English, we started our two-day hike to admire the mountains from close. A hard climb of over 1000 meters of altitude was necessary. Especially hard because sometimes was still snow on the way. At the top we saw once again one of those magical moments: The whole mountain chain shone in the sun, the blue of the sky made a nice contrast with the white of the snow. And the many prayer flags gave the place a bit mystical. Just gorgeous! The descent to the village 'Yubeng' went all by itself. We were glad to translators, we had with us. So we quickly found a simple accommodation, drank a beer and enjoyed a fine supper. David was so excited that he even dawn to climb again took upon himself. That it was worth it can you see here equal to itself:

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The second day of hiking led us through a valley always along a river. Never before have we seen such a clear river in China. The traces of the people, it was only a pair of empty PET Fläschli, but always accompanied us on the hike. Along a deep gorge with impressive rock faces we walked to the Mekong, which we had to cross. Here, the water looks even more like a wild mountain river, no comparison with the tranquility and width in Laos! We met on the way to other hikers. With them, we went by minibus to the starting point. This hike was varied and offered us vistas that we will not soon forget. David has them here documented for all interested parties.

Several hours in the bus took us about 'Lijiang' to the railway station, from where started our journey in the next province. The ride was thankfully uneventful. The predicted snowfall had prevented the pass road and we would probably still there today.

China is not yet easy to travel. It's not just the communication problems, but especially at the totally different culture. Perhaps we can sometimes gruff manners and the ruthlessness in everyday life used to the. What the "Gekoddere", "smacking" and "Geschnuddere" is concerned, we have our doubts ... :)

We leave you sincerely greet from the Middle Kingdom and are glad that you is so true to the sun! :)

Image Gallery Yunnan:

GPS Track of Yunnan