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In 14 days from Chamonix to Zermatt

The images for the migration can be found at the bottom of this article.

Even on our trip we were planning this hike, so to speak, as a grand finale. She is known as " Walker's Haute Route "and is among the most beautiful hikes in Europe. The route takes in 14 days of 'Chamonix' to 'Zermatt'. In other words, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, below ten of the highest peaks of the Alps. The walk promises immersion in a world of glaciers, the towering, snow-capped mountains, green Alptälern with diverse mountain flowers and villages like in the picture. And indeed, as we saw it too! However, we could not follow the entire original route because of the higher passes still too much snow was the harsh winter. We therefore remained flexible and were anticipated for alternatives.

(All pictures can be enlarged by clicking)

After about two weeks at home, we packed our backpack again. But we were still very familiar. Strange it was more likely to take their clothes suddenly from a wardrobe. :) We made our way into the center of alpinism France: 'Chamonix'. The place is overrun by tourists who either enjoy in one of the numerous street cafés, a raclette or are in full gear as hikers go. The latter included also we. The weather was not great, but we could take a look at the Bossons Glacier catch. The glacier comes directly from the Mont Blanc. Our first stage was short: In about two hours we reached the campground in 'Argentière'. This is done by an Englishman, anyway it seemed to have only Englishman. The Tour de Mont Blanc , another known hike is very popular among them.


The road took us further towards Switzerland. The first to pass was the Coercive 'Col de Balme' (2204 m asl). The backpack felt heavy on the rise. In addition, we were surprised by the first rain. But we were well equipped and did not discourage us go. The descent was steep, but the views of the Trient made ​​it easier: He was very impressive with its size and how it flows beautifully into the valley, glorious! With the arrival in 'Trent' we had already left France and were back in Switzerland. In our Guidebook (incidentally also written by an Englishman) it was said that the shopping 'Trent' "limited opening times" would. The fact that the store but closed all day, which we did not expect. With a little improvisation and nice questions we could finally buy a pack "Hörndli" in the restaurant and had so dinner and breakfast! :)


The next pass led us to the 'Alp Bovine'. The location of this Alp is phenomenal! By the nice weather we had almost 360 degree view into the beautiful Rhone Valley. We preferred a quiet grass cookies instead of the crowded terrace of Alp for our lunch stop. After tough descent we enjoyed a beer in the sun: For those moments worth the effort! :) We stayed in 'Champex', a nest on a small lake. After many carbohydrates for supper we made ourselves comfortable on the lake and enjoyed the sunset.

2012-06-28-20-34-42_dsc_0085 The next stage took us over 'Le Châble' to 'Verbier'. The rise in the blazing heat was particularly tough. Following clarifications in the InfoCenter was clear that we will no longer follow the original route of the 'Haute Route' from here. The roads were not yet officially released in part and we wanted under any circumstances take a risk. Thanks to a tip of the tourist office in Verbier we found our perfect roost: a barbecue on Verbier including fountains! So we stocked up with a grilled and white wine and took the last 400 meters in attack. With cold white wine, Torch Spiess we left the day before the fire end seated and gave our muscles a well-deserved rest.

2012-06-29-15-47-31_dsc_0135 We followed the cable car up to the terminus. We arrived on a pleasant trail to pass named 'Col des Mines'. After descending the path walked along by the old water pipes . In German-speaking Upper Valais they are called 'suonen', in Lower Valais (French) 'bite'. We could only marvel at this ancient irrigation system! When you consider how much work is behind it and how dangerous it had been to build this and to entertain. It was always pleasant to be able to follow the water, on the one hand, the tendency was never extreme and we felt and as a witness of a piece of Valais history. The expectations placed on our goal were obviously far too high. The place 'Siviez', also known as Super-Nendaz, made a very bleak impression on us. In winter, when it's busy, that might be different. But we felt already restored almost to Russia with this large, the collapse of the nearby residential blocks ... A supermarket there was not. So we looked for a nice spot by the stream, and contented ourselves with everything the backpack had to edible to offer.


Along the 'bite' it continued over 'Veysonnaz' to 'Vex'. This village we liked most. It seemed really intact with a village shop, a pool, a butcher and several restaurants. No comparison to the tourist villages on the way, which downright sleep with their empty apartments in the summer. A cozy campsite would have made the stay perfect ... If it were combined with lightning and thunder was ... At the right moment we were in the dry and enjoyed our Spaghetti therefore more just not the heavy rain.

2012-07-01-12-36-35_dsc_0176 The hike took us past the impressive Earth Pyramids of Euseigne. The pyramids are one of the best known natural monuments of Eringertales and the Wallis. Only we did not know before. The pyramids are impressive 10-15 meters high! They are caused by lengthy, geological processes and inevitably go against a natural decay. So it's worth, this visit soon yet! ;) We managed to climb to 'St. Martin 'just before the heavy rain began. To bridge we made ourselves in the restaurant with hot chocolate cozy. The rain and wanted to but did not stop. So we trotted going anyway and found a witty "accommodation": An open wooden hut next to a petanque field. So we did not have our tent set up in the wet and had yet to a dry spot for cooking.

2012-07-03-13-26-23_dsc_0244 The weather was lucky us the next day not at all hold. It was raining lightly at the start and then went over in thunderstorms. Not ideal to cross a pass. We had no other choice than to be seen in the forest and to count the seconds between lightning and thunder, so we knew when we are safe again. A hot stock then woke our spirits again. We were strengthened and were the 'Col de Cou' now even cope without rain. The sight after passport reminded us of New Zealand: pur ... except a few sheep nothing to see nature! Gorgeous! In 'Vissoie' arrived we bought the cheese to suit your mood, swelled potatoes and enjoyed beer and wine. We had also earned us really! :)

Only the next day we had time to the village 'Vissoie' to explore. It is true urchig walliserisch with wooden houses and the beautiful stone church. However, the next target uphill was worth seeing: 'St. Luc 'with an almost dreamy mood and a village square out of a picture book. Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated again, but again we had luck and could see the tent up before rain. We decided on a campground next to the 'Lac Combavert'. An idyllic mountain lake. The rapid change of weather a real natural spectacle was offered to us this evening. Alternating rain, fog and sun. Each television program would be boring about it!


The 'Meidpass' was our next destination. The climb was fortunately not very steep, although constant. And the effort was rewarded with a beautiful view! Moreover us a private air show was offered. To date, we do not know what that was exactly. Two Swiss fighter jets were practicing any maneuvers over our heads. Because of the location, we were surrounded by mountains, the noise was deafening. The fascination grabbed us anyway, at least David. We met in a long time after that other hikers and the best part was we were able to talk in Swiss German with them! :) Indeed, we reached the first German city: 'pits'. Here we enjoyed the first time a food away. And we were not disappointed! A super Käseschnitte inspired us already to go a bit towards the next pass. The rain messed up our plan then but. We could set up our tent near a cabin just as the rain insets. At this time we did not know that he no longer stops until the morning, and it was less than four clock in the afternoon. The first time we had to cook in the rain and then crept away back in the tent.

2012-07-05-09-48-40_dsc_0611 Because the weather forecast improvement in the weather promised, we received the sunrise wake 05.40 clock. This has then also very worthwhile. We quickly packed up everything and went. The 'Augstbordpass' (2897 m) once again offered us a great view. But what awaited us after two hours exceeded this: The view to the Matter with the glacier right in front of us, Grächen (former ski resort of David) over high mountains and as far as the eye! Moreover talked funny mountain goats with their long shaggy hair and curved horns. After a steep descent we reached 'St. Niklaus'. Since there was no campground and we had a shower again even necessary, we moved further upwards as far as 'Niedergrächen' where we expected the perfect campsite. We were able to cook, hot showers and even wash our clothes in a machine!

This was followed by the first day to recover. However, the walking time was just two hours to 'Gasenried'. There we found a nice place to stay. The "Raiffeisen Roost" was luxuriously equipped with two fireplaces, a fountain and benches. We bought spontaneously in "consumption" steak and white wine and made us a nice evening. We had to be strengthened for the next day, because a hard climb was us before.

2012-07-07-09-46-09_dsc_0666 During the night it rained again. When we had the biggest rise behind us, we made known abroad the tent wet to dry and enjoyed the view of the Bernese Alps and the Matter. We were for the last two days on the Europaweg . It is the Königsettappe the "Tour Monte Rosa", and is sold as a highlight in the life of all nature lovers and hikers, even as the most beautiful trail in the Alps. And indeed he has a great deal: the many glaciers, lush meadows full of mountain flowers, the narrow paths, the paths through the rocks ... and yet we were not always well. By the permafrost of the whole mountain seems to be in motion. There are warning signs on rocks and we also heard such. If you look at what can cause the nature, one a bit is "uneasy". Thanks to the adrenaline you are but then in certain places also very quick! :) The main attraction of the road, a 250m long suspension bridge, was destroyed by falling rocks. Geologists have been no clear signal for this area. Why is the future of this bridge, or perhaps all the way, still in the stars. The trail because of the absence of the bridge almost to the village 'Randa' down and then everything up until it flows back again into the original Europaweg. Exactly on this "detour" we had a very nice encounter. We were in search of drinking water and discovered a fountain between several mountain huts. Fortunately, only four people there and we were looking for a place for our tent wondering. We wanted to go to sleep when one of them showed up and invited us to a little drink in her hut. We were thrilled and enjoyed the conversations in the cozy wooden hut with beer and freshly baked Aprikosenwähe, what a luxury! :)

2012-07-09-11-28-54_dsc_0927 On the last day of the trek we got the Matterhorn for the first time to face cloudless! We all agreed: this is the most beautiful mountain we have! :) So impressive as it towers over the valley! With the Matterhorn in mind, we took the last leg in attack. Now the road was again more populated. It was a pleasant trail, which can be reached by train from Zermatt even. Happy and proud to have made all the way from 'Chamonix' to 'Zermatt' with your own muscle power we reached our destination. To top off Roger Federer won Wimbledon this evening, which still gave us another reason to celebrate. On a simple camping in the middle of 'Zermatt' we made ourselves comfortable and rallied us first of all. We enjoyed the time with an aperitif, fondue on the camping stove and even Raclette in the restaurant. On the day of departure, we were visited by Karin's sisters and her grandmother. We spent the day together and traveled together back home.

The two weeks on migration were sometimes very hard, exhausting, challenging, very tiring but satisfying, impressive and absolutely gorgeous, it has to offer a nature! All around a successful ending to our trip! :)

Enjoying the summer even as we and are greeted warmly!

For anyone interested here is some of the statistics:

Profile of the migration including the major waypoints (click to enlarge)


(Click to enlarge) Total 13'996m ascent and descent 13'050m, average 999,7m up and down daily 932,1m - difference in height in meters per day

(Click to enlarge) Total 249km, average 17.8km per day - Distance traveled per day

Spending per day - Total 397 CHF per person or average 28.35 per person per day (click to enlarge)

GPS track of the modified route between Chamonix and Zermatt campgrounds

"Original" -Haute-Route (click to enlarge)

Pictures of Hike


Take it home!

2012-05-19-13-00-33_dsc_0292 In 'Kiev' we enjoyed the time with Julia and Sergei, who spoiled us with a lot of home cooked. We were lucky, because the two are also wine lovers. So we could generously wine in our favorite store Good Wine shop and this contribute to the Ukrainian specialties. During the day we explored the town. It is very clean, you get on every corner freshly tapped beer and we could admire many churches and monasteries. A monastery was particularly impressive: The Pechersk Lavra "Kiev Pechersk Lavra" . Years ago, more than a thousand monks built underground caves, which used it as a burial of deceased monks. Along all gears are in niches the coffins of many monks, whose bodies mummified in coffins over the centuries. Parts of the caves are for tourists, so for us, accessible. We bought a candle that lit the way. Many believers visited coffin to coffin and kissed the glass pane during the prayer. It was a very eerie, but very exciting experience!

2012-05-20-08-50-46_dsc_0294 Our next destination in Ukraine was the historic 'Lviv' or German: 'Lemberg'. The beautiful old town invites you to stroll, eat ice cream and coffee drinking. We liked the cozy atmosphere. We were particularly pleased us about the ingenuity of Ukrainian shortly before EM Start: They dressed several statues with a Dress of the Ukrainian national team, a glorious sight! :)

The Hungarian capital 'Budapest' was our next destination. Our desire to feel like tourist attractions after visiting several cities in succession had left. Instead, we explored the city on foot and left us amazed by the buildings, the many bridges and the culinary digressions! ;) Also this city is absolutely worth seeing!

2012-05-27-12-13-46_dsc_0333 In about four hours by train we arrived at 'Vienna', in time for the Whitsun weekend. We were able to stay with Alenka, a former colleague of David, her boyfriend and Fredy Dog "Milo". The weather was pleased with us and showed its best side! We ate sushi as much as we could, the city visited, with its beautiful buildings and squares, grilled on the balcony and ate a Wiener Schnitzel as big as a pizza! :) It was just gorgeous! Thank you three for the beautiful days!

2012-05-30-18-39-26_dsc_0401 On our way home we were allowed again to visit a friend. Udo we learned in Peru know and he lives by chance only about an hour west of Vienna. We were able to stay two nights with him and his family. We felt like we were at home. The quiet village with its green surroundings very reminded us of the Switzerland! Again, we were spoiled culinary: With fresh strawberry dumplings! At this point again a big thank you for the hospitality!

2012-06-05-11-54-12_dsc_0423 The nervousness increased because we were very close from home! After all that eating, drinking and lazing we wanted to move. We opted for the South Tyrol. In Molveno, a small town right on the lake, we moved into a lovely room overlooking the lake in the Hotel Olympia . We were interested especially the Brenta Dolomites near. The weather was poor, but nevertheless we enjoyed the effort, the meadows full of mountain flowers and the ibex, which we encountered the same in a whole herd. So just before the season we met almost no other hikers, peace was so refreshing! After hiking we darted straight into the sauna and the Turkish Bath: The perfect relaxation for our muscles.

In order to meet an additional region we moved to three nights to get rid of 'Cavalese' from Hotel Lagorai . As you can see: We let ourselves go in the end again really good! :) The multi-course menu in the evening we wanted to earn during the day with walks in the Rosengarten and Latemar. The typical Dolomite mountains fascinated us totally! Even if we had to go detours in part because of the snow fields, the visit to this region was worth. What to be desired, however, the public transport. The compounds are not ideal, it is rare buses and you have to be happy obviously, if they come at all. :)


Eight hours took the drive from Cavalese to Davos, including seven times transfers. Our previous experience has been tested for the last time! Once in Davos, we were welcomed by Sandro, a friend of David. We could not believe it: Switzerland has us again! :) The first shopping at Migros was then already a little odd ... we enjoyed to the products, which were so obvious on the shelf. We grabbed Rivella and Petit Beurre and enjoyed our first Barilla Spaghetti long! We were particularly pleased by the sight of our Franks, especially the "coin". :) As a foreign currency and yet so familiar. Of course, we got used to it very quickly!

When we bought the tickets for our train the next day we realized very clearly that we have arrived back in Switzerland! :) In Zurich we made ​​a short stopover for unbeatable pizza in Cucina ! A long-cherished plan: "When we are at home, we go first to eat pizza". Said and done. The adrenalin rose steadily ... In Baden we could Brigitte, Karins sister greet first. All other did not know when we arrive exactly. So we were able to gradually surprise our love. The joy was huge !!! It was followed by a toast after another and of course Karins birthday party on Sunday.

We are very happy and grateful to be healthy again at home. These 19 months, we will certainly never forget! We now look forward to the next phase: The arrival and processing. Fits We have concocted our next trick: A two-week hike in beautiful Switzerland. You hear from us! ;)

Pictures Ukraine, Hungary, Austria & Italy

GPS Track Eastern Europe


Yunnan - China

The launch in China was not made easy for us. First, the customs officer Karin did not recognize in the photo in the passport, which resulted in a long wait and evaluation by several border officials, then put nasty bacteria Karin paralyzed for two days.

2012-03-08-13-47-43_dsc_0463 With new energy we continued our journey north. The energy needed we then really: The bus is one of the worst ever. This time, not because of the driver or a dangerous road, but because of the behavior of the Chinese passengers. In full minibus was smoked there was no tomorrow! Not only cigarettes! Also huge hookahs were used. We were fogged downright. Added to this was accompanied by the persistent unpleasant noises spitting, even in the bus. By winding road, some women had passed over again. Dealing with the waste was also shocking. No matter what kind of garbage; PET, glass, Zigis, plastic ... everything is just thrown out the window! We felt like part in the wrong movie! These twelve hours in the bus, we probably will not soon forget. The impression of the uncivilized (of course for our understanding) China hit us with full force!

2012-03-08-07-10-22_dsc_0400 The first stop we made in the known rice terraces to 'Yuanyang' a. The season was perfect because the rice paddies are filled with water and then give beautiful reflections. In the city we met traditionally dressed women. A beautiful sight: The bright colors of clothes combined with the ornate silver headgear. We are stationed in the village 'Duoyishu' in the middle of the terraces. The idyll of the village, however, is already tarnished. People are changed by tourism. They do seem to lack nothing but begging children and women as soon as they see one. Once begged a little girl with her mouth full of food ... The state has invested mightily to the village. It was just an enormous terrace for the Chinese mass tourism built so that all the amateur photographers have a good view of the rice fields. However, we were looking for a place in the terraces to enjoy the sunrise. That was really worth it ... watch the color change, to see how the sun slowly rises over the mountain and emphasizes the beauty of the reflective surfaces.

2012-03-10-13-20-43_dsc_0521 The night bus we went to 'Dali'. We read in the guidebook that this place is very touristy. But since it actually had only Chinese tourists, we did not mind that. It turned out that we were mostly the biggest attraction. People wanted to be photographed with us again and again, the brave less we caught behind our backs, as they secretly took pictures of us! :) Here we observed the young, obviously wealthy Chinese for the first time. You ordered at the next table all kinds of food. When it was served it but did not eat it. After poking around a few times they paid and left the restaurant. This experience was not the last. For us incomprehensible they might want to show that they are so rich that they do not have necessary food. We spent the time roaming in the very clean for once streets with old wooden houses, which were lined with pink flowering trees. It was a relief to have a menu card in English in front of him. The language barrier caused us namely considerable effort. Fortunately, we have the most important words in Chinese characters in our guide. Without whom we would be lost again. Even the sign language for the numbers is different. This we did, meanwhile, learned, so that we can show on the market at least a little, and with his hand to signal the number. :)

2012-03-11-13-24-09_dsc_0550 A short walk took us to the 'Cang Shan' mountain range. There we were allowed thanks to Amelia and Philippe in High Erland Inn quartered and celebrate David's birthday, so to speak again. The accommodation is very informal; We felt from the beginning. The dinner was a highlight. On large, round table sorts fine dining were uncovered and all made use of according to your mood. A day hike gave us a nice view of the city. Although tedious was wading in deep snow. However, the huge Pinientannzapfen road and the thought of fine supper made us forget the effort quickly! Thanks again to you both for successful gift! :)

2012-03-12-19-58-24_dsc_0620 The small village 'Shaxi' surprised us especially with its pretty village square. A real idyll! The old wooden houses, together with the cobblestones and the large tree in the middle are simply out of a picture book! We had a very original accommodation . Horse stalls have been converted into accommodation. Each room had a very small space toilet and a shower. The way to the toilet has never been so short as in those nights, which was much appreciated in the cold! :)

2012-03-15-20-10-44_dsc_0679 The peace did not last long. 'Lijiang' was our next destination. This place topped 'Dali' by far in terms of tourism. The old town is supposed to be one of the most visited tourist destinations in the world. And we knew this not prior to our visit! Because one realizes how many people live and travel here. The masses are frightening part. The old town is more a cultural Disneyland as a place to live. It consists almost entirely of souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. At night, the atmosphere is particularly cheesy. The visit was nevertheless entertaining and also a real challenge for our sense of direction. The narrow streets are a veritable maze, we were glad to have every time again found the hotel!

2012-03-19-19-23-43_dsc_0721 The next leg of the journey took us further north. Wir passierten die berühmte Tigersprungschlucht (Tiger Leaping Gorge), welche die tiefste Schlucht der Welt sein soll. Das Landschaftsbild veränderte sich. Wir sahen Jaks auf weiten Weideflächen und Häuser im tibetischen Baustil. Die Stadt 'Shangri La' liegt an den Ausläufern der Himalayas. Und genau diese Berge erweckten unser Interesse! Es lagen jedoch noch einige Stunden Busfahrt inklusiv Passüberquerung vor uns, bis wir endlich einen ersten Blick auf die atemberaubend schöne Bergkette 'Meili Xue' werfen konnten. Auf einer neu erbauten Aussichtsplattform türmten sich die Berge majestätisch vor uns auf: 13 Gipfel über 6'000 Meter! Solche Berge hatten wir noch nie gesehen. Wir hatten ein riesen Glück mit dem Wetter, die Sicht war perfekt! Zudem hatte es vor wenigen Tagen geschneit, was das Bild wirklich perfekt machte.

Mit chinesischen Studenten, welche glücklicherweise englisch sprachen, starteten wir unsere zweitägige Wanderung, um die Berge aus der Nähe bewundern zu können. Ein harter Aufstieg von über 1000 Höhenmetern war nötig. Hart vorallem, weil zum Teil noch Schnee auf dem Weg lag. Oben angekommen erlebten wir wieder einmal einen dieser magischen Momente: Die ganze Bergkette erstrahlte in der Sonne, das Blau des Himmels bildete einen schönen Kontrast zum Weiss des Schnees. Und die vielen Gebetsfahnen verliehen dem Ort etwas mystisches. Einfach nur herrlich! Der Abstieg zum Dorf 'Yubeng' ging wie von alleine. Wir waren froh um die Übersetzer, die wir dabei hatten. So fanden wir schnell eine einfache Unterkunft, tranken ein Bier und genossen ein feines Znacht. David war so begeistert, dass er sogar zum Sonnenaufgang den Aufstieg nochmals auf sich nahm. Dass es sich gelohnt hat könnt ihr hier gleich selbst sehen:


Der zweite Wandertag führte uns durch ein Tal, immer entlang eines Flusses. Noch nie zuvor sahen wir so einen klaren Fluss in China. Die Spuren der Menschen, seien es nur ein Paar leere PET-Fläschli, begleiteten uns jedoch immer auf der Wanderung. Entlang einer tiefen Schlucht mit eindrücklichen Felswänden wanderten wir bis zum Mekong, welchen wir dann überqueren mussten. Hier wirkt das Gewässer noch wie ein wilder Bergfluss, kein Vergleich mit der Ruhe und Breite in Laos! Wir trafen unterwegs auf weitere Wanderer. Mit ihnen ging es dann per Minibus zurück zum Ausgangspunkt. Diese Wanderung war abwechslungsreich und bot uns Ausblicke, die wir nicht so schnell vergessen werden. David hat sie hier für alle Interessierten dokumentiert.

Etliche Stunden im Bus führten uns über 'Lijiang' zum Bahnhof, von wo aus unsere Reise in die nächste Provinz startete. Die Fahrt verlief glücklicherweise ohne Zwischenfälle. Die vorausgesagten Schneefälle hätten die Passfahrt verhindert und wir wären wohl noch heute dort.

China ist bislang nicht einfach zu bereisen. Es liegt nicht nur an den Verständigungsproblemen, sondern vorallem an der total anderen Kultur. Vielleicht können wir uns an die zum Teil ruppigen Umgangsformen und die Rücksichtslosigkeit im Alltag gewöhnen. Was das “Gekoddere”, “Geschmatze” und “Geschnuddere” angeht, haben wir unsere Zweifel… :)

Wir lassen euch herzlichst grüssen aus dem Reich der Mitte und freuen uns, dass euch die Sonne so treu ist! :)

Bildgallerie Yunnan:

GPS Track von Yunnan